Wrangler creative director: “Under Kontoor we can increase investments like never before”


With a history dating
back to 1897, Wrangler’s past achievements are well known: in 1996, one out
of every five pairs of jeans sold in the United States was a Wrangler. The
brand has also secured a spot among the best selling denim brands in the
world. But what does the future hold for the American label, now that it is
under a new parent company?

One year ago, VF Corporation, Wrangler’s owner since 1986, decided to
spin off its denim brands Wrangler and Lee, creating a separate, publicly
traded business called Kontoor Brands. Although VF announced the split as
good news, saying the “exciting new step” would “mean that both VF and the
new company will have the resources, management focus and financial
flexibility to thrive in a dynamic marketplace, creating an even brighter
future for both organizations”, analysts were quick to say the two denim
brands were struggling to compete with athleisure.

Declaring leggings are the new jeans is a hasty conclusion, however.
Although leggings do outpace denim in terms of growth, denim’s market share
is still twice as big as that of leggings. In addition, mass retailers in
the UK and the US went back to increasing the number of denim styles in their assortment
after a dip in 2015 and 2016.

Also working to Wrangler’s advantage is the nostalgia trend catapulting heritage brads back
to hype status. During the last Kingpins trade show in Amsterdam, experts
Amy Leverton and Sam Trotman, from trend forecasting company Denim Dudes, predicted the demand for American iconography
from the 1980s and 1990s to increase even more as a result from mounting
frustrations about the current economy and politics. “Millennials are
literally buying back their youth,” said Leverton. Many of them are turning
to secondhand shops to find original pieces from those decades. As a
result, brands which were popular in that period are actively going through
their archives for inspiration on new designs, or even re-launching iconic
pieces exactly the way they were. Wrangler is no different: in February,
the label released its first global collection, Icons, featuring
six restyled cult items from the past.

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Considering denim is one of the most polluting segments of the fashion
industry, the future of Wrangler’s designs inescapably involves addressing
the issue of sustainability. The brand is starting to take its first steps
in that regard: earlier this year, Wrangler launched its first collection using 100 percent sustainable
cotton
in the United States. Another line made with a new technology, which is said to eliminate almost
100 percent of the water typically used in the dyeing process, hit European
stores in June.

FashionUnited spoke with Sean Gormley, Creative Director for Wrangler
EMEA, to learn more about these developments.

Wrangler creative director: “Under Kontoor we can increase investments like never before”

Let’s start by talking a little bit about yourself. How did you enter
the denim industry and how did you become Wrangler’s creative director?

I was studying fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London, and I
had an
opportunity to intern at Fake London Genius, a cult luxury brand. They were
designing premium jeans and casualwear in Wapping, an area of east London
that
had attracted fashion designers, artists and other creatives. It was during
this year
that my appreciation for denim grew and I returned to Saint Martins with
clear ideas
about how I would design my final collection. At that time I was one of
only a few
student designers using denim, which was probably helpful for getting me my
first
break.

What tips would you give to someone aspiring to work as a denim
designer?

Do your homework on the history of denim, from a design perspective.
Research the
various eras of denim history – from the earliest American utility workwear
to Sixties
style, Eighties silhouettes and washes, and the Nineties grunge look and
more –
because elements of these all come around again and again, and influence
current and
future trends.

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From a practical perspective, I’d advise an aspiring designer to really
think about the type of brand or product that you would love to work on,
research
them and target those brands or designers. Make contact, show your work and
show determination. It really helps.

How has the separation of Wrangler from VF Corporation affected you
creatively? Does Kontoor Brands have any special plans for Wrangler?

As a part of Kontoor Brands, Wrangler is sharpening its focus on
becoming a unified global brand with products that reflect today’s style,
fit and finish expectations. This
global approach influences how we think about design and creativity – we
want to
ensure we are bringing Wrangler’s western heritage to the forefront with
products
that excite consumers globally.

You see evidence of this approach in recent collection launches like
Wrangler Icons,
which was a global launch. The concept came out of Europe, and we
collaborated with our regional counterparts to finetune and launch it
globally. Under Kontoor, we are able to leverage and increase brand
investments like never before in design, creativity and innovation.

Wrangler creative director: “Under Kontoor we can increase investments like never before”

Nostalgia is a big trend these days, especially in the denim scene.
Wrangler has
recently relaunched classic styles from its archive with the ‘Icons
collection’. How was
it to go through the archives and redesign these styles?

I love working with Wrangler’s unbelievably rich product and marketing
archives. As
a heritage brand, we have decades of inspiring material. We’ve picked up
rare
denim treasures and curious oddities from the 100-year history of Wrangler
and its
predecessor brand Blue Bell, that inspires us constantly. The
recently-launched Icons
range came out of a clothing rail of amazing vintage garments that was
wheeled
around the office for a month or two, being discussed and edited down. One
of the
most important criteria we used to decide which styles to reissue in the
Icons range
was popularity. Brands don’t get to call products iconic, consumers do. A
product
only becomes iconic through its staying power in the test of time.

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Some people say leggings are threatening the denim market. What do you
think about that? What is the future of denim, for you?

I think denim and jeans will always be an important way to dress. The
fabric and style
has been interwoven with popular culture for decades. Denim will remain a
symbol
of youth, durability, freedom and self-expression — and I can quite
confidently say
that the legging will never get close to that!

Wrangler is making an effort to be more sustainable. The brand unveiled
its foam dyeing technique earlier this year. How is the strive to produce
denim in a more
sustainable way affecting the way you work?

As a designer today there is a great responsibility to demand better
products for the
environment at every level, from the production of the yard, to dyeing, to
how
people wash their denim at home. I’m proud of the way our product creation
teams
have embraced a culture of responsibility, and that the company as a whole
has set
its sights on becoming a global leader in sustainable manufacturing.

What are you most proud of in your work for Wrangler?

I’m most proud of the amazing team we have in Antwerp. It’s a small yet
highly
productive office with passionate people who love the brand and believe,
like me,
in the massive potential of Wrangler. Our recent Indigood launch of
sustainably-dyed denim was the culmination of 18 months of collaboration
with fantastic partners such as textile experts Tejidos Royo and Hilaturas
Ferre. That was a big career highlight, and it feels great to work on
genuine breakthrough innovation that will hopefully lead a revolution in
the way denim is dyed.

Pictures: courtesy of Wrangler



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