fashion

FW22/23: a focus on responsible and innovative fabrics


With customers having an ever-growing need for durable and sustainable
products that embody well-being, performance and responsibility, the
fashion industry is working towards new fabrics that meet its
consumers’ high expectations. We have seen an array of innovations
take over the collections in the last few years and months, but a
bigger shift is still needed. The AW22/23 season is already shaping
into the most innovative season so far, with fairs and events
showcasing newly-developed fabrics, yarns and diverse technologies.
FashionUnited dives into the most promising changes for the next
winter season.

Image: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei

While it’s true that entirely new technologies are slowly entering the
industry, some fabrics have been around for a while or revisited to be
more eco-friendly, too. Première Vision has highlighted the importance
of linen in the AW22/23 collections – it has many sustainable
credentials that correspond to what customers are looking for. Indeed,
80% of its production is made in Western Europe and is free from GMOs.
It also doesn’t require a lot of irrigation, which makes it a much
more responsible option than cotton. It’s appreciated by designers as
it’s made from flax plant and thermoregulating, while being durable
and versatile. Tencel will stick around too – it’s an easy alternative
to cotton that uses much less water and is 50 percent more
absorbent.

Brands are also adopting mushroom leather, the most recent ones being
Hermès and Stella McCartney. Brunello Cucinelli has already released
boots made of this low-impact fabric. But the AW22/23 collections will
also keep on incorporating tried-and-true innovations: Stone Island is
using ECONYL for its outerwear, a recycled material that uses
synthetic waste like fishing nets and plastics. Italian company
Aquafil is a forerunner in the field – it recycles and regenerates
waste while using less water to create durable ECONYL.

We’ll still be seeing Piñatex, an alternative to leather made from
pineapple leaf fibres and Parblex, a textured fabric made from potato
waste sourced from McCain that embodies the concept of circular
economy. Mylo, a material that imitates leather and is made from roots
of fungi, will also be used for garments and accessories alike.

Image: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei

However, some new fabrics are taking the lead for AW22/23. ISPO
Textrends award-winner ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei has just launched its
collection, which blends high-performance and technology. With the
goal in mind to protect nature, body and mind, it has developed a
range of materials that are crafted from certified ingredients, are
traceable and come from a transparent production process and supply
chain.

Most of its yarns are certified Global Recycled Standard-certified
(GRS) and both its dyeing and finishing techniques are certified by
labels such as Bluesign® and OEKO-TEX® Standard 100. Made from 36
fabrics that mix outerwear, sportswear and innerwear, its collections
feature ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei, a recycled stretch yarn created from
pre-consumer waste and Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a high-tech yarn
coming from the transformation of cotton linters.

Image: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei

Specialised in material research and high-tech developments, the
Illuna Group has introduced at Première Vision Paris new yarns that
will make the AW22/23 season focus on responsibility. It has added to
the GRS category recycled yarns that come in new designs and are
fitted with one-of-a-kind performances. It has showcased the cord
yarn, which is made from ROICA™ EF premium stretch and has a unique
textured handle.

Image: ECOSENSOR™ by Asahi Kasei



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